Snack Happy with Zucchini Hummus

Snack Time Just Got Yummier

Hi friends. Sorry I've been away for a while. I've been stuck down a rabbit hole trying to create a successful (read: tasty) breakfast cookie and failing miserably. After all that hard work, I was in need of a little snack, and I thought you might be, too. This recipe is another great one from my mom, who has been following a raw food diet on and off for the past few years. The idea here is that zucchini replaces the cooked chickpeas and, if you're really into raw, you buy raw tahini as well. For me, it's just a lighter, more refreshing take on traditional hummus. Oh, and super fast and easy. Enjoy!

Zucchini Hummus 

Prep Time: 5 min. Total Time: 10 min. Makes: Approx. 3 cups

2 zucchini, peeled and chopped

2 to 4 cloves garlic, peeled 

3/4 cup tahini

1/2 cup lemon juice

1/4 cup olive oil

2-1/2 tsp kosher salt

1/2 tsp cumin

Place all ingredients in a blender. Blend until smooth. 

Ratatouille Is a Side Dish with Soul

Ratatouille, the simplest of soul foods 

Why do we cook? When does it have more meaning than getting dinner on the table, when does it provide nourishment not only for the body but for the soul? This coming weekend will be my first Mother's Day. Cooking and motherhood are entwined in my mind. My mom is an excellent cook, and she taught my brother, sister and me the importance of eating well, of food as tradition, of food as an expression of love and care. When mothers cook, so often there is much more going on than just making a meal.

I was thinking about all of this yesterday morning as I made ratatouille. I've read much about this rustic French dish. How it can be sublimely aromatic and warming, the flavour of each vegetable enhancing without overshadowing the others, or it can become soupy and mushy, the vegetables indistinguishable from one another. Chefs call for the cooking of the vegetables in separate pans to retain their individual flavour, folding them together only at the very end. 

The recipe I share here is far more efficient than that, offering the type of ingenuity that only a mother who has neither the time nor inclination to wash 10 different pans can create. Here you layer the ingredients in one dish so they retain their integrity while being infused with flavour from garlic, spices and herbs. It is the result of generations of French mothers honing and passing down their secrets for coaxing deliciousness out of humble ingredients. It is a dish that makes use of bumper crops from the kitchen garden, that has an inherent savouriness that requires only crusty bread, maybe a poached egg on top. It is about nourishment, health, frugality and transforming vegetables into a dish with meaning and soul. It is about what mothers do in so many ways without us ever realizing.  

Ratatouille 

Prep Time: 15 min. Total Time: 1 hr. 15 min. Serves: 4

*adapted from "The Country Cooking of France" by Anne Willan

2 small eggplants, thinly sliced into rounds

2 zucchini, sliced into 1/2 inch rounds

2 to 3 generous pinches salt

1/4 cup olive oil, divided

2 small leeks, washed and sliced

2 shallots, diced

salt and pepper

3 cloves garlic, minced 

1 tbsp coriander seeds, crushed

pinch red chili flakes

4 medium tomatoes, seeded and diced

2 medium red bell peppers, seeded and sliced

bouquet garni (3 sprigs thyme, 2 bay leaves, handful parsley)

2 tbsp chopped parsley

Spread eggplant and zucchini slices onto trays, sprinkle with salt and allow to sit for 30 min. to draw out moisture. Rinse, drain and dry on paper towels.

Heat 2 tbsp oil in a pot and sauté leek and shallots (season with salt and pepper) on medium heat until softened, approx. 5 to 7 min. Remove pot from heat. In a small bowl, mix garlic with coriander, chili flakes and a pinch each of salt and pepper.

Layer eggplant, zucchini, peppers and tomatoes in pot, sprinkling garlic mixture between each layer. Place bouquet garni in middle of pot, pushing into layers. Drizzle with remaining olive oil.

Return pot to heat, cover and gently simmer on medium low for approx. 30 min., stirring toward the end of cooking. If there is too much liquid, remove lid and allow to simmer for approx. 10 to 15 min. to reduce. Remove bouquet garni, adjust seasoning as necessary and sprinkle with chopped parsley to serve. 

Pasta Salad & Shrimp with Middle Eastern Flare

What's for dinner? Spice-rubbed shrimp on a bed of Israeli Cous Cous 

Over the past few summers, my staple barbecue side dish has been an orzo salad. I don't really follow a recipe, but you can expect some medley of olives, feta, peppers and tomatoes to be involved. It's a good salad, but I have a feeling my friends and family are getting a little tired of it. Or, at least, I am. 

Today's recipe, well, it's more like three, is the result of an experiment to find an alternative. Instead of orzo, I tried out Israeli Cous Cous, which I've had frequently at restaurants and loved, but not made at home. Have you tried it? It's larger than North African cous cous with a nice firm texture and cooks like regular pasta. I prefer smaller pastas for salads and this is an elegant alternative to orzo or macaroni.

When making pasta salad, here's a tip I learned from a food stylist that works: often you read about rinsing pasta for pasta salads to cool it down – don't. You'll wash off the starch, which you need for the dressing to adhere. Instead, spread it on a baking sheet and toss with a touch of oil to prevent sticking, then pop it in your fridge for a few minutes to cool. You're pasta salads will be tastier, I promise. (This works for rice and quinoa, too.)

For flavours, I wanted to give this recipe a bit of a Middle Eastern spin. This spicy basil dressing is a riff on pesto, with a touch of sweet from sun-dried tomatoes and heat from harissa paste. (You won't need all the dressing, but you can freeze the leftovers as you would pesto and use to flavour soups or pastas.) In the salad itself, I added preserved lemon for a salty-sour tang. And for the shrimp, which I added in just for fun – and to get a head start on dinner – I chose sumac and cumin, both earthy spices. The result is a bold, intensely flavoured and unique salad. Mainstay material? I'm not sure my focus group of one can make that decision. I'll have to trial it on May 2-4!

Middle-Eastern Spiced Shrimp & Israeli Cous Cous Salad with Spicy Basil Dressing 
Prep Time: 20 min. | Total Time: 1 hr. | Serves: 4 

For the Spicy Basil Dressing
2 cups packed fresh basil leaves, washed and dried
2 cloves garlic, peeled
2 tbsp sun-dried tomatoes, chopped
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
generous pinch salt
1 tsp harissa paste 

Place basil, garlic and sun-dried tomatoes in a blender. Blend until lightly chopped. Continue blending, slowly adding oil. Blend until combined. Remove sauce from blender. Add salt and harissa paste; stir to combine. Dressing can be made 1 to 2 days ahead, covered tightly with plastic wrap and stored in the refrigerator.

For the Israeli Cous Cous Salad
1 bunch asparagus, washed and trimmed

2 tbsp olive oil, divided

2 cups Israeli Cous Cous

1 shallot, thinly sliced
1 yellow pepper finely chopped
1 tsp finely chopped preserved lemon or zest of 1 lemon 
4 tbsp Spicy Basil Sauce
1 tbsp lemon juice

Preheat oven to 375ºF. Toss asparagus in 1 tbsp oil and place on a roasting tray. Roast for approx. 15 to 20 min. Remove from oven, set aside to cool. Chop asparagus into bite sized pieces. 

Meanwhile, cook Israeli Cous Cous in salted boiling water for approx. 8 to 10 min. until al dente. Drain, spread on a roasting tray and toss in remaining olive oil. Place in refrigerator to cool. 

Place cooled asparagus, Israeli Cous Cous, shallot, yellow pepper, preserved lemon, Spicy Basil Sauce and lemon juice in a bowl. Toss to combine. Adjust seasoning as necessary.

For the Shrimp
1 tsp each sumac and ground cumin
1/2 tsp kosher salt
1/2 lb shrimp, shell on, cleaned and deveined
1 tbsp olive oil

In a small bowl, mix spices together. Pat shrimp dry. In a large bowl, toss shrimp with spices. 

Pat shrimp dry. Heat oil in a medium skillet or grill pan on medium high heat. Sear shrimp on both sides and cook until opaque, approx. 7 min. 

A Winning Recipe For Artichokes

 Meaty artichokes are perfectly matched with a pungent garlic-anchovy dressing   

I love artichokes. I have fond memories of gorging on them one family holiday in California. I was a rapt audience as my mom and her friend trimmed, boiled, stuffed and baked them. This was an afternoon project, a proverbial labour of love. We'd eat them as an appetizer, first dipping the leaves in melted butter, scraping the tender meat with our teeth, working our way to the heart, which was covered in a soft, herby cheese. At 17, I couldn't imagine a more decadent, sensual food experience. I think just about everyone who isn't a chef, and maybe even some of them too, has a cooking nemesis. The ingredient or recipe that intimidates the hell out of you. Something that at once draws you to it and simultaneously pushes you away, saying no you will screw me up, don't even try it. Despite or perhaps because of my nostalgic memories, for me that ingredient has been artichokes. In my professional career, I have researched and written about them. I have concepted and edited recipes in which they star. But I always shy away from cooking them. My husband jokes about it every time we see them at the market; that he has no idea what they taste like, he'll hold one up and quizzically ask what vegetable it is. He's funny, my husband.

I couldn't turn away from these lovely purple-hued chokes 

I read a great blog post recently by Anna Watson Carl on The Yellow Table about fear. It's strange the things we're intimidated by because often they are things that will be rewarding, uplifting and even pleasurable, when achieved, while the downfall of any failing will be so small in comparison. My issue with artichokes came from the fact that there's a lot of prep and that maybe they wouldn't be that good after all that work. And it's a fear not without its justification – I've had this experience when I've tackled them in the past. But then I saw some gorgeous "sangria" artichokes at Whole Foods and they were so lovely, I kept circling back to them. Finally, I decided to buy them and come at the process with a different viewpoint. They are a vegetable. I cook all manner of vegetables all the time, confidently and without a recipe. I am also equipped with technical knowledge of how to prepare said vegetable. Why not forget fancy recipes and focus on prepping the artichokes and then marrying with flavours I enjoy? And that's what I did. 

Preparing artichokes isn't actually difficult. Just a little fussy. The basic idea is to remove anything really tough or inedible, just as you would with any other vegetable. On most young, medium sized artichokes, the stem is as tasty as the heart, so you just need to peel it. You can get fancy and trim the tops of the leaves or you can just remove the tough outer leaves and cut the very tops off the artichoke. Artichokes brown easily, so either rub with a slice of lemon as you make cuts or place in a bowl of lemon water. The choke is not as scary as it sounds. It's the fuzzy centre of the artichoke that sits above the heart. When quartering artichokes, you can use a spoon or melon baller to remove from each quarter and then give the choke a rinse. Or, if you're paring the artichoke all the way down to the heart and keeping it intact, you can just scrape it off the top. At the end of the day, some of the work lies in the hands of the person eating the artichoke. They will eat the leaves that are tender enough, scrape the meat off the leaves that are not and eat the heart that is the real gift of the artichoke. So as I told myself, don't worry about it so much. 

For flavours, I turned to an unbeatable Italian trio: garlic, anchovies and chili flakes. If you're not sold on anchovies, I understand, leave 'em out. But if you're just turned off by the thought of anchovy, maybe give it a try. The flavours marry so well, and they're not fishy. Just really delicious. They get a bit crisp as they fry. You'll want bread for mopping it all up. 

So as you can see from this post, I am intimidated no more. They turned out great. Actually, better than great! I would love to hear what food has been your foe in the kitchen – perhaps we can tackle it together!

Give artichokes a simmer before sautéing

Sautéed Artichokes with Garlic, Anchovies & Chili 
Prep Time: 25 min. | Total Time: 50 min. | Makes: 4
2 lemons, divided 
4 medium artichokes
pinch salt  
2 bay leaves 
2 large cloves garlic
3 to 4 anchovy fillets (packed in oil)
1/2 tsp chili flakes (to taste) 
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

Fill a large bowl with cold water. Slice one of the lemons in half and squeeze into the water. Prepare artichokes, working one at a time, by removing any really tough outer leaves, cutting off tops of artichoke and peeling stems. Slice each artichoke in quarters, removing the fuzzy choke fibres using a teaspoon or melon baller. Place artichokes in lemon water to prevent browning. 

Cut second lemon into slices and place in a large pot with water, salt and bay leaves. Bring to a boil and place artichokes in water. Simmer for approx. 10 to 15 min. until tender. Drain.

Meanwhile, mince garlic and anchovy as finely as possible to make a paste (use a little salt for friction or a mortar and pestle if you have one). Heat oil in a large skillet on medium heat. Add garlic-anchovy paste and chili flakes. Place drained artichokes cut side down in skillet. Sauté until browned and turn to brown on other side.

Get Your Brunch On with Baked Eggs

Baked eggs – they're begging you to dig in.  

Baked eggs. To me there is no better brunch dish. It's all the things you love about breakfast – eggs, bacon, tomatoes... cheese, even – cozied up together in a ramekin, bathed in a little cream and gently baked. Brilliant. I especially love they're versatility. You don't need a recipe – just flavours you enjoy; or, whatever's in your fridge. You can make as many or as few as you like. Contrary to what you may think, it's ideal for a crowd because you can prep the ramekins in the morning, stick them in the fridge and bake when you're ready. The only  slightly fiddly bit is baking the ramekins in a water bath, but this is a step worth taking as it ensures the eggs cook gently, resulting in the much sought-after perfectly runny yolk. In my oven, 18 minutes is just right to get the doneness on the eggs I like. If in doubt, pull them out a minute earlier rather than later, as they'll keep cooking for bit once they're out of the oven, and you can always put them back in, but you can't undo an over-cooked egg. Here's a sort-of recipe to inspire you, but play with the cheese, herbs and other ingredients. I've even seen a recipe for eggs baked in red wine! Try 'em out for Easter brunch or have them for dinner one night when you just can't face cooking anything else. 

Prep, layer, bake and then dig in

Baked Eggs with Bacon, Gruyere & Caramelized Tomatoes

Prep Time: 15 min. | Total Time: 40 min. | Makes: 8 (1 egg each) or 4 (2 eggs each)
knob butter
1 cup sliced grape or cherry tomatoes 
1 clove garlic, finely sliced
pinch salt and pepper
1/2 tsp thyme leaves, divided 
6 to 8 slices bacon, chopped
8 eggs
1/4 cup heavy or whipping cream
3/4 cup finely grated Gruyere cheese 
pinch freshly grated nutmeg (optional)

Preheat oven to 350ºF. Melt butter in a small skillet over medium heat. Place garlic and half the thyme in skillet. Place tomatoes slice side down in skillet. Season with salt and pepper. Cook over medium heat until softened and lightly caramelized, approx. 7 to 10 min. 

Meanwhile cook bacon in a skillet until crisp. Remove from pan and place on a paper-towel lined plate to absorb fat. 

Place 8 small or 4 large ramekins in a baking dish or shallow roasting pan. Divide bacon and tomatoes evenly between ramekins. Crack 1 to 2 eggs in each ramekin. Top with remaining thyme. Top each ramekin evenly with cream and then sprinkle with cheese. Top with freshly grated pepper or nutmeg. 

Pour freshly boiled water into baking dish or roasting pan, filling about half way up the ramekins and being careful not to get any inside the ramekins.

Bake for approx. 18 min until eggs are set but yolk is still runny. 

Pavlova Is The Ultimate Easter Dessert

She's a beaut – Pavlova has that wow-factor

Ever since my husband and I had our son last year, we've been talking a lot about family food traditions –  which ones we'll take from our respective families and which ones we want to create for ourselves. 

Pavlova is one food tradition we can both agree on. Both my mom and my MIL have made Pavlova for years, and it's a feature at most spring celebrations, especially Easter. My MIL, Bernie, has made Pavlova for catering events so frequently she could probably do it in her sleep. Until recently, I had never made it, because as can happen with family recipes, it wasn't my job and they both do such a good one. But with our family far away and this blog as my motivator, I decided it was time to learn. 

A large meringue topped with whipped cream and fresh fruit, Pavlova hails from Australia and New Zealand and is said to have been created to honour the Russian ballerina Anna Pavlova in the 1920s. Though made up of just a few ingredients and taking only a few minutes to prepare, Pavlovas have a bit of a rep for being tricky. They can collapse, crack and seep sugary syrup. They can be overly chewy or brittle and dry. But when done well, they are heavenly. Crisp on the outside and soft and marshmallowy on the inside. The perfect vessel for whipped cream and any fruit topping. 

I have now made it twice. The first attempt tasted good and the texture was close but it was fairly flat – too few egg whites, no cornstarch. After a bit of research and a quick Skype with Bernie, I tried again. I was pretty happy with attempt number two. But I have a feeling that this will be one recipe I will work to perfect year after year, until, one day, it'll be my turn to pass it on, having learned all the secrets. 

In the meantime, here are the tips I've compiled from the experts du jour, my mom and my MIL:

• The more egg whites you use, the higher and more marshmallowy the Pavlova 
I used 5 for the one shown in the photograph, only because I got yolk into the white of one of my eggs (a big no-no) and was out of eggs. I think 6 egg whites is a good amount but if you want to increase, add a 1/4 cup sugar for every additional egg white. 
• Older eggs are better than fresh So say the mamas and food science agrees: the protein of the whites thins out, so they'll whip up more easily.
• Make sure the eggs are at room temperature My MIL is so adamant about this, she cracks her whites the night before and leaves them on the kitchen counter. I would say leave at room temp for at least an hour.
• Use a metal bowl and make sure it's clean You don't have to use a stand mixer, but you do have to use a metal bowl. Any grease, which can accumulate in plastic bowls, will prevent your eggs from whipping. To ensure your bowl is clean, wipe with white vinegar and dry with a paper towel. 
• Use superfine or castor sugar and add by the tbsp to ensure it becomes fully incorporated Once the sugar is added and the whites are glossy and whipped to stiff peaks, the sugar should be completely dissolved. You can test this by pinching the meringue between your fingers – you shouldn't feel any granuals. If you do, keep whipping. But don't over-whip – that causes seeping!
• Use cornstarch Some recipes call for vinegar or boiling water as well, but my family experts say cornstarch is the key. I made one with and one without, and I found the one without to have a lot less volume. 
• Finally, don't open the oven door! Terrible things will happen! It will collapse or crack! The sky will fall! To be safe, both my mom and MIL, leave it in the oven overnight to dry out and cool very gradually, and, now, so do I. 

Pavlova before and after cooking and ready to assemble

Pavlova
Prep Time: 15 min. | Total Time: 1 hr. 45 min. plus cooling time 

6 egg whites, room temperature
1-1/2 cups superfine granulated sugar
2 tsp cornstarch, sifted

Preheat oven to 225ºF. Draw a 9-inch circle with pencil on a piece of parchment paper. Flip parchment over and place on a baking sheet. 

Using a stand mixer with whisk attachment, whip egg whites on medium speed until frothy. Increase speed a notch and begin adding sugar, 1 tbsp at a time, allowing each tbsp to become fully incorporated before adding the next. Add cornstarch and allow to incorporate. This process may take approx. 5 to 7 min. Increase speed to maximum and whip until peaks are stiff and glossy. To test meringue, pinch small amount of mixture between your fingers; the sugar should be completely dissolved. 

Scoop meringue onto parchment circle, spreading to edges and making a slight concave in the centre. 

Place in oven and immediately reduce temperature to 200ºF. Bake for 1-1/2 hours. Without opening oven door, turn off oven and leave pavlova to cool slowly overnight. 

When ready to serve, fill with whipped cream and fresh fruit like passion fruit, sliced strawberries or raspberries.

Everything in Moderation Except for Brownies

A brownie a day keeps the stress away

Are you feeling stressed out? Too much on the go? Succumbing to the cult of busy that everyone is nattering on about right now? 

I have the antidote. Brownies. Brownies are soothing for so many reasons, not least of which is making them. This recipe is as simple as it gets, and that's what I love about it. I don't have to think. It doesn't require fiddling or finesse. Measure, melt, stir, pour. That is all. For me, last night, after a busy, busy day of juggling all the things a work-from-home mom juggles, it was just what I needed to lower my shoulders away from my ears.

Take a bite of a warm, gooey, chocolatey piece of heaven. Wash it down with a glass of ice cold milk. And let the world slide away for a minute.

There now, isn't that better? 

Simply Brownies 
Prep Time: 10 min. | Total Time: 1 hour | Makes: 24

1-1/4 cups dark bittersweet chocolate 
1 cup butter
2 cups sugar
1 tbsp vanilla extract
4 eggs
1 cup all purpose flour
1/4 tsp kosher salt
1 cup toasted, chopped walnuts

Preheat oven to 350ºF.

In a large saucepan, melt together chocolate and butter, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat and allow to cool slightly. 

Whisk in sugar and vanilla. Whisk in eggs, one at a time. Gradually stir in flour and salt until well combined. Stir in walnuts. Pour batter into a parchment-paper lined 9x13" baking pan. 

Bake for 35 to 40 min. Cool slightly in pan on a wire rack. Use parchment to remove brownies from pan onto chopping board and cut into 24 pieces. 

A Rhubarb Fool That's No Joke

Rhubarb fool. It's so easy, well, you get the picture. 

Today is going to be short and sweet, just like the recipe I'm sharing. It's April Fool's Day, but I like you people way too much to pull any pranks (also, who has the time?). Instead, I'm serving up a namesake recipe: a traditional English dessert called a Fool. Possibly one of the oldest documented English desserts, a Fool or Foole was originally made with gooseberry's (now that would be a gag recipe – not my favourite) and custard. Contemporary Fools are made with either custard or whipped cream and any type of fruit puree folded there in. I favour whipped cream for both flavour, lightness and simplicity. Rhubarb is a classic celebration of spring, with its acidic tang and sweetness (once tempered, that is, by a good dousing of sugar). Light, sweet and ever so pretty, this dessert is a lovely way to cap off a special meal, but you should also make it tonight just because it's so damn easy, any fool could do it.  

Pretty in pink: Stewing intensifies rhubarb's colour

Rhubarb Fool 
Prep Time: 5 min. | Total Time: 30 min. plus chilling time | Serves: 6 to 8

1 lb rhubarb, leaves and stems removed, cut into chunks
3/4 cup sugar
2 tbsp water

Whipped Cream 
2 cups whipping cream
4 tbsp sugar

Place rhubarb, sugar and water in a pot, stir and cover. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. Simmer approx. 15 to 20 min. until soft. Stir to break up rhubarb and refrigerate until cool. 

Meanwhile, whip cream with sugar until stiff peaks form. Refrigerate until ready to use (can be kept for up to 12 hours in the fridge). 

Gradually fold rhubarb into whipped cream mixture until desired amount (you may have extra rhubarb). Place in individual serving dishes and garnish with additional rhubarb if desired and mint leaves.

Soba, Cucumber and Mango Make Friends with Some Tasty Tofu

Tofu and soba – they go together like "rama lama lama ka dinga da dinga dong"  

Today's was the post that nearly wasn't. I was planning to do a soba noodle salad but the details of it were yet to come together, particularly what to serve with it. I thought about salmon and trout and scallops. All good options, but things I cook all the time. I wanted to do something a little different. Because I have a baby in tow, I've fallen into a routine of cooking and photographing for the blog a day ahead of time, and I've usually researched and shopped for the recipe at least a couple of days in advance. Not so yesterday. Yesterday, the idea of what to make and how to round out the recipe popped into my head while on a stroll with my little guy, who was refusing to take his morning nap. I thought the fresh (read: frigid) air would help. It did. He conked out, and I end up getting a coffee and hitting the mall. Somewhere between Baby Gap and Old Navy the idea of marinated tofu came to mind. It was the perfect accompaniment. Then I was wondering how to freshen up the soba noodles, and decided on mango and cucumber. Cilantro would be nice. Maybe edamame. Definitely ginger. On the way home, I stopped to pick up what I needed, but Rory was awake and in no mood to spend one more minute out, and certainly not content to hang out at the grocery store. I dashed around managing to remember about half of my mental list. When I got home, I realized I bought the wrong tofu, medium instead of firm. Okay, not a disaster, but I wasn't sure if it would work. 

Then this happened...

Splat! Tofu hits the deck. I can laugh about it now.

And I cursed just a tiny bit. Super-important cooking tip here: actually seal the resealable plastic bag, especially if you plan to turn it upside down. (Also, why are messes such a magnet for cats and babies?) I thought about scrapping the lot. But that seemed a little overly dramatic. While that tofu ended up in the garbage, thankfully, I had just enough left to make this:

Marinated & Baked Tofu

And after that rambling preamble, here's what I have to say about it. It was tasty. Even though I didn't have the right tofu, it held together. I couldn't marinate it for long enough because I was on a tight let's-get-this-thing-done-before-the-baby-wakes-up schedule (nap number two), but it was enough to impart flavour. So I share this recipe with the caveat that I didn't do it perfectly. This recipe is decidedly not triple tested. So what you see here is a little pale, not as imbued with marinade or as golden as it should be. Yours will be better. As for soba or buckwheat noodles, well that was the easy part. They cook quickly and have lots of nutty flavour. Had I remembered my whole list, I would have probably added some cilantro and maybe edamame, but maybe not. Maybe simpler is better. I played with the dressing until it was a good balance of salty, sour and sweet. I find different tamari/soy sauces and miso pastes have different salt levels, so you may need to adjust based on your brand. If you don't have mirin, which is sweet, you can add a touch more sweetness, maybe a bit more vinegar. A quick tip, the tamari/soy sauce in the dressing will darken the mango and cucumber and dull their bright flavours, so this is an eat-right-away versus do-ahead; although the dressing, of course, is made ahead in order to marinate the tofu.

So please accept today's harried and humble offering. I can attest that it makes for a very good, long-overdue lunch eaten standing up by the kitchen sink, but I imagine it will also hold up to somewhat more noble circumstances should you deem it worthy.

Soba Noodle, Cucumber & Mango Salad with Marinated Tofu 

Prep Time: 10 min. | Total Time: 50 min., plus marinade time | Serves: 4

Dressing
1/4 cup canola oil
2 tbsp sesame oil
2 tbsp tamari or light soy sauce
1 tbsp rice wine vinegar
1 tbsp mirin 
1 tbsp agave syrup or 3/4 tbsp honey
2 tsp miso paste
2 tsp grated ginger 
1 bunch green onions, thinly sliced, divided
1tsp seeded and finely chopped red finger chili

Tofu
1 pkg firm or extra firm tofu, drained and cut into cubes

Salad
1 mango, peeled and julienned
1/2 English cucumber, julienned 
1 pkg/200 g soba noodles 
1 tsp toasted sesame seeds

Whisk together ingredients for the dressing, using half the green onions and half the chili, setting aside remaining for later use. Place half the dressing in resealable plastic bag with tofu cubes, seal and place in the refrigerator. Allow to marinate for at least 2 hours and up to 1 day. Reserve remaining dressing, refrigerating until needed.

Preheat oven to 350ºF. Place tofu in a sieve and drain excess marinade. Place tofu on a parchment paper-lined baking sheet and bake for approx. 40 to 45 min. until golden, turning every 10 to 15 min.

Meanwhile, cook soba noodles in salted boiling water for approx. 5 min. until al dente. Drain and place in a bowl filled with ice water to stop the cooking process and cool. Drain and place in a large bowl. Add mango, cucumber, reserved green onion and chili and sesame seeds. Toss with reserved dressing. Serve soba salad with tofu, on the side or on top.

Bobotie: A Sexy Take On Shepherd's Pie

Make tonight South African night with Bobotie

When I was in my early twenties, I worked as an associate editor for a lifestyle magazine that featured travel and food stories. This was in the early 2000s, when press junkets were still the norm. (Maybe they still are, but I haven't been on one in a very long time!) My well-connected editor was offered so many of these freebie trips she couldn't attend them all, and I was the lucky recipient of a few of her cast offs. One of the most memorable and fantastic experiences was a 10-day trip to South Africa. 

We toured Pretoria, Jo-burg and Cape Town. We visited Robben Island, Soweto and the Apartheid Museum. We safaried (I rode an elephant!), toured the wineries of the Stellenbosch region, took a cable car to the top of Table Mountain and saw penguins that sounded like donkeys at Cape Point. And we ate fabulous food!

My job on this life-changing trip was to source South African recipes and tell the story of the country through its cuisine. South Africa has a rich culinary heritage and many, many fantastic restaurants. One of the quintessential dishes was Bobotie, which is a national dish of sorts. Spice-filled, meaty and almost creamy, Bobotie is like the sexiest Shepherd's Pie you'll ever eat. I have tried several recipes, but the one I like best ironically comes from the Irish cookbook I told you about a couple of weeks ago. Their recipe is by of Silwood Kitchen School of Cookery in Cape Town, the oldest cooking school in South Africa, so it's pretty legit. 

Bobotie is a true fusion dish with a storied history, much like that of South Africa itself. It is referred to as a Cape-Malay dish and stems from the Dutch colonization of both Indonesia and South Africa in the 17th century and the influence of the food cooked by the Malaysian slaves who were brought there. Like any iconic recipe, there are many, many iterations, but the basic components include ground meat, often lamb, cooked with spices, nuts, dried fruit and sometimes fruit chutney. This mixture is then topped with an egg-and-milk topping and baked. The version here doesn't include dried fruit or chutney, and I think it's one of the more authentic versions I've tasted. If you'd like to add dried fruit, sultanas or chopped dried apricots are typical; I'd say about 1/4 to 1/3 cup. Don't be put off by the amount of different spices – if you've got curry powder, ground ginger and cinnamon, you'll be in good shape. (Although turmeric is a wonderful spice and so good for you – it's worth buying!) A key step I discovered if you use lamb or regular ground beef (vs. lean or extra lean) is to brown it separately first and drain off the fat. The first time I made this dish, I followed the recipe exactly (although it wasn't very detailed; like, no cook times or anything!), and it was very greasy – the method I've added below works like a charm and is also a good tip when making Shepherd's Pie. 

Although not the prettiest dish, it's a warming, comforting meal that has pizzaz. Serve with rice and salad, and you've got (a South African) dinner! 

Bobotie
Prep Time: 15 min. | Total Time: 45 min. | Serves: 4-6
*Adapted from Ballymaloe Cookery Course by Darina Allen

1 lb ground lamb or beef
2 tbsp olive oil
1 onion, chopped
2-1/2 tsp ground ginger
2 tsp curry powder
1 tsp each ground coriander seed, turmeric and sugar
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 cup grated carrot
1/2 tsp lemon zest 
1 tsp seeded, finely chopped red finger chili (optional)
2 tbsp chopped parsley or cilantro 
1 tbsp chopped slivered almonds 
2 slices thick white bread soaked in milk, drained and squeezed dry
1 tbsp red wine vinegar 
salt and pepper to taste

Buttermilk Topping
1 cup buttermilk 
2 eggs 
pinch salt and pepper
2-1/2 tsp turmeric 

Preheat oven to 350ºF. 

In a large skillet, cook lamb on medium-high heat until beginning to brown and juices are released, approx. 3 to 5 min. Remove lamb to a sieve placed over a bowl to allow excess fat to drain; discard fat. Rinse and dry skillet. Return skillet to heat and add oil. Cook onions over medium heat until translucent, approx. 3 min. Add lamb back to skillet and continue to cook until browned, approx. 2 to 3 min. Add spices and stir to incorporate, cooking for approx. 1 min. Add garlic, zest, chili, herbs and almonds and stir, cooking for approx. 1 min. Add bread and vinegar, stirring and breaking up bread to incorporate, approx. 1 min. Season with salt and pepper. Remove from heat and set aside. 

Meanwhile, in a medium-sized bowl whisk together the ingredients for the buttermilk topping. Strain mixture through a sieve into another bowl, using a spatula to push the mixture through. 

Place meat mixture into a shallow baking dish, pressing down to flatten with spatula. Pour buttermilk mixture evenly overtop. Bake until topping is set and golden, approx. 25 min.

Gluten-Free Twist on Tabouleh

Swap in quinoa for a gluten-free twist on tabouleh

Growing up, my family lived in Saudi Arabia. We were there for 10 years, which was a pretty life-changing experience for all of us. One of the best ways it influenced my brother, sister and me was through our early exposure to an entirely different food culture. Middle Eastern cuisine is wonderfully complex and flavourful – well-spiced but not spicy. I love the balance of earthy, sweet and sour flavours, with spices such as cumin, turmeric, allspice and sumac and the frequent use of lemons, dried fruit and yogurt or labneh.

One of the recipes I make most frequently from those days is also one of the simplest: tabouleh or parsley and bulgar wheat salad. There was something about the tabouleh I had in Saudi that is never the same here – there are regional differences in the parsley to bulgar wheat ratios and in Saudi the tabouleh was more parsley-centric. I follow a recipe from an old book by Tess Mallos, first published in the late '70s, called "The Complete Middle East Cook Book," which offers both options. It's a comprehensive and fascinating book – she covers regional cuisine ranging from Greece, Cyprus and Turkey to Lebanon, Jordan and Iraq to the Gulf States, Afghanistan and Armenia. While some dishes are a tad too authentic for my taste, such as lamb brains (I'm an adventurous eater, but, no) many are more approachable, like chick peas with spinach, barbecued fish with dates and saffron rice. 

Now here comes my twist: quinoa. When I floated the idea to my husband (who also grew up in Saudi) about trying tabouleh with quinoa instead of bulgar, he was pretty skeptical – as in don't mess with my tabouleh skeptical. Like any good wife, I ignored him and tried it anyway. I really enjoyed the nuttiness it added, plus, while bulgar or cracked wheat is a whole grain, quinoa offers more protein and it's a great gluten-free option. If you want to opt for the traditional tabouleh, go for it, I've included the directions for bulgar also. And let me know if you'd like more Middle Eastern recipes!

Quinoa Tabouleh

adapted from "The Complete Middle East Cookbook" by Tess Mallos

Prep Time: 15 min. | Total Time: 20 min. | Serves: 4 

3 to 4 cups chopped flat leaf parsley (washed, dried and stems removed)

1/2 cup sliced green onions

1/4 cup chopped mint

2 tomatoes seeded and chopped or 1/2 cup grape tomatoes, quartered

1 cup cooked quinoa or 1/4 cup fine bulgar wheat, soaked

1/4 cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil

2 tbsp lemon juice

1/2 tsp kosher salt

1/2 tsp pepper

Add first five ingredients to a large mixing bowl. Whisk together olive oil, lemon juice and salt and pepper. Pour dressing over ingredients and stir to mix.  

How to cook quinoa: Place 1/2 cup quinoa in a fine mesh sieve and rinse with cold water to remove bitterness; drain. Place in a medium pot and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil and then reduce to medium-low, simmering for approx. 20 min., until quinoa has almost doubled in size, kernels have burst and it is softened but still chewy. Spread onto a paper-towel lined baking sheet to cool and dry. 

How to soak bulgar: Place 1/4 cup fine bulgar wheat in a bowl and cover with cold water. Allow to sit for 30 min.; drain. Spread onto a paper-towl lined baking sheet to dry.

A note on the salt in this recipe. The original calls for a whopping 1-1/2 tsp of salt, which is just way too salty to be enjoyable. For this recipe, I've reduced to 1/2 tsp, but of course check the flavour of the dressing and adjust according to your taste buds. 

Mushroom Soup That's Magic

Make this crazy-good mushroom soup and you can go all "soup nazi" on everyone

This weekend, we had a glut of cremini mushrooms in the fridge. Ian had been on a lasagna-making blitz, with the intent of trying out a new mushroom lasagna recipe as well as his go-to meatball recipe. But after simmering a tomato sauce for hours, rolling dozens of mini meatballs and assembling and baking three large pans of the stuff, our freezer was jammed and he was over it. 

So then we were left wondering what to do with all those mushrooms. Inspiration really does  come from the most unexpected places. We caught a rerun of "The Soup Nazi" episode of Seinfeld. ("No soup for you!" Hilarious. It never gets old.) Soup seemed like great idea. It usually does. If I had to choose to eat only one kind of food for the rest of my life, it would be a duke out between soup and pasta. Soup might win. 

This homemade mushroom soup is an epiphany, if I do say so myself. It has a deeply umami, true mushroom flavour that cannot be compared to the canned variety. I prefer the meatiness of creminis, but you can use white button mushrooms, too. The real key flavour-wise is adding dried mushrooms and the stock made from reconstituting them. I had porcini on hand but it could be mixed dried mushrooms. And I'd say the cream at the end is a must for that silky luxuriousness that brings everything together. If you choose to not add cream (because why?), you may need a little more stock to achieve the right consistency, once the mushrooms are blended. 

When you make this soup, you have permission to get all "soup nazi" on your family and friends. Get them to form a tidy, quiet line while you ladle it out. Have them clean the kitchen for you afterwards. Shout "no soup for you!" if they don't comply. They'll think you've lost it. It'll be fun! 

Cream of Mushroom Soup 
Prep Time: 10 min. | Total Time: 40 min. | Makes: approx. 5 cups

1/4 cup dried porcini mushrooms
1 cup hot water
2 tbsp unsalted butter
1 medium onion, diced
pinch each salt, pepper and cayenne pepper
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 tbsp chopped fresh thyme leaves
8 cups (580 g) roughly chopped cremini mushrooms
2 tbsp brandy (optional)
1 tbsp all purpose flour 
3 cups chicken or veal stock
salt to taste
1/2 cup heavy or whipping cream

Pour hot water over dried porcini mushrooms and allow to steep and plump for approx. 10 to 15 min. 

Meanwhile, in a large soup or stock pot, melt butter over medium to medium-low heat and cook onion until soft and translucent, approx. 5 min. Add salt, pepper and cayenne and continue to cook for 1 to 2 more min. Add garlic and thyme and cook 1 to 2 more min. Add mushrooms and cook until softened and all the liquid has released from the mushrooms and has evaporated, stirring frequently, approx. 7 min. Add brandy and cook for 1 to 2 min more. Add flour and stir to ensure it's incorporated, cook 1 to 2 min more. 

Strain and reserve the mushroom stock created by steeping the dried mushrooms. Roughly chop mushrooms and add to pot. Add mushroom and chicken stocks to pot, stir and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer for 20 min. 

Taste and season as necessary. Remove from heat. Using an immersion or stand blender, blend until smooth. Return to pot and add cream, stirring on a low heat until incorporated.  

The Beauty of Irish Soda Bread

Easy, Satisfying & Rustically Beautiful Irish Soda Bread

I will always have a soft spot for Ireland. I love its emerald countryside, the warm, witty people, and the incredible, soulful food. But I love it all the more because Ireland is where my husband asked me to marry him. It was June 2009, and we had travelled to Ireland for the wedding of our dear friends Eoin and Lisa. After the wedding, we drove around Ireland for a few days, stopping one night at Ballymaloe Country House, outside of Cork. It's quite a famous spot, run by Darina Allen, a well-known food celeb in the U.K. (A tangental but funny story: during our extremely quaint countryside dinner there, several SUVs pulled up and out popped Jay-Z and Nelly! Weird, eh?) Down the road is Ballymaloe Cookery School, which has extensive gardens and a farm. Ian and I spent the following morning pottering about there. It was completely idyllic, full of vegetable patches and beautiful flower gardens. At one point we came upon a charming tiny house lined with sea shells – I was awed by its prettiness. Ian says I had a look on my face that said, "now?" As in, "Will you propose now? This place is perfect." I don't recall having that expectation at all, but he'd left the ring in the car so it had to wait. 

Later that day we drove on to our next stop, Waterford Castle, now a hotel and restaurant. When we got there, Ian immediately wanted to go for a drink and a walk. This was when I knew something was up. He was agitated. He downed his drink and mine within minutes and immediately launched us onto our "scenic" promenade. Trouble was, it wasn't so scenic that day. As it goes with Ireland, there'd been a lot of rain, so the path was quite swampy forcing us to walk single file, and it was distractingly buggy. He was clearly looking for the best spot to pop the question, but it wasn't presenting itself, so we finished the walk and went back to the room. The tension was mounting! The proposal happened later that evening, outside the castle before dinner, with a beautiful sunset in the background. It was perfect! So you can see why Ireland will always be special to me.

Okay, that was a lot of back story to get to the point, which is: one of my favourite cookbooks is Darina Allen's. It's a thick compendium of recipes, with lots of great technique information. I always reference it when I'm cooking a roast or making something classic like hollandaise. It was the only place to turn to when looking for something to celebrate St. Patrick's Day, and this most honest of Irish recipes, Soda Bread, seemed the right one to share. It's quick, it's easy – really truly. You have to trust in the simplicity of the recipe because you're going to keep wondering, is it that easy? Did I get it right? It is and you did. And making it provides you with this gratifying knowledge: I baked bread. The bread is dense and chewy and rustic. It's ideal for dunking in a soup or stew. I also sliced it thin and toasted it, slathering it with butter and a pinch of salt. So simple. So perfect. So Irish. Happy St. Patty's Day!

Irish Soda Bread
*adapted from Darina Allen's "Ballymaloe Cookery Course"
3-1/4 cups all purpose flour
1 tsp kosher salt
1 tsp baking soda
1-3/4 cups buttermilk 

Preheat oven to 450ºF. Sieve dry ingredients into a medium bowl. Make a well in the centre. Pour buttermilk into well. Using one hand, with fingers stiff and outstretched like a claw, stir mixture in a circular movement from the centre to the outside of the bowl in ever-increasing circles, until dough comes together. Dough should be soft and not too wet or sticky. 

Turn dough out onto floured surface. Wash and dry hands. Pat dough into a round ball. Cut a deep cross into the loaf and prick the four corners.  

Place on a baking sheet and bake for 15 min. then reduce heat to 400ºF and bake for 30 min. more. To test bread doneness, tap the bottom of the loaf; it should make a hollow sound. Place on a cooling rack. Eat within one to two days.